Montana Misadventures Megathread with Aran

Urban exploration outside of the Ozarks area
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Re: Montana Misadventures Megathread with Aran

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Well, I'm back. Sorry for the long delay in updates- I've spent the better part of the last month on the road and haven't had the time to sit down to write entries or conduct research. But I'm back, this time with a slight alteration to the usual format at the beginning. Hopefully this adds a little bit of flavor.

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Bell Mine Headframe

I huffed in exhaustion as I paused to catch my breath on the hillside. Pulling a bottle of water from my satchel, I turned back the way I came to admire the view as I took a long drink. The towering headframes of the Kelley Mine stood far below me, with the skyline of Butte behind them and the distant mountains rising on the horizon beyond that.

I contemplated the mostly- hidden sun for a moment. It was lower in the sky than I’d have preferred, but I was making good enough time that I was confident I’d make it to the top of the hill and back before nightfall. I stowed my water bottle in my pack and turned back up the slope. The towering skeleton of the Bell headframe stood imposingly tall upon the hilltop, black iron set against a backdrop of grey skies.

I shook the fatigue from my limbs and took a step forward. I had a long hike ahead of me yet, and the sooner I reached the headframe the better. Those skyline shots weren’t going to shoot themselves, after all.


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Not far from the Kelley mine sits the headframe for the Bell Mine, built in 1898. The Bell mine was one of the oldest mines in Butte with a single shaft descending roughly 3200 feet down beneath this headframe. At some point in the early twentieth century the Bell mine merged with the Diamond mine and the shaft of the Bell mine was backfilled with waste rock from the Diamond mine. The Bell-Diamond Mine, as it became known, remained in operation until 1958. Four years later an explosion would destroy much of the surface works for the Diamond mine aside from the Bell headframe, though almost no information is available online regarding that incident.

Any further information regarding this explosion is overshadowed in the historical record by the Bell-Diamond mine’s involvement in the Granite Mountain-Speculator Fire of 1917, one of the worst hard rock mining disasters in American history. The assistant foreman for the nearby Granite Mountain mine was working on the installation of some electrical cable in the main shaft when his lantern ignited some of the insulation surrounding the cable. The fire quickly spread to the timbers of the mine shaft itself and turned the entire shaft into a massive chimney that rapidly spread the fire throughout multiple levels of the mine.

But though the fire itself burned two would-be rescuers alive as they descended in an elevator cage, by far the biggest killer was the smoke and gas it produced. A mixture of smoke, blackdamp (oxygen deficient air), and whitedamp (carbon monoxide) flooded through all levels of the Granite Mountain mine and into several connected mines, including the Bell-Diamond. This wave of lethal air quickly rendered hundreds of miles of tunnels under Butte unbreathable, killing miners and rescuers alike by the dozens. Many more miners found themselves trapped by the fumes and a few lucky survivors barricaded themselves in airtight pockets for up to two and a half days before escaping.

When all was said and done the fire had claimed the lives of 168 miners between the various connected mines, and simmering tensions between the Anaconda Copper Company and the labor movement boiled over. Two weeks after the Granite Mountain-Speculator fire the Metal Mine Workers Union formed and immediately declared a city-wide strike for safer working conditions, which was joined in solidarity by many of the other trade unions in the city. This caught the attention of union labor organizers around the world and the International Workers of the World sent a socialist labor organizer to help the strikers.

This organizer, a man named Frank Little, was kidnapped, dragged behind a car, and lynched from a bridge on the outskirts of Butte by six masked killers. A note pinned to his corpse indicated that his murder was retaliation for his role in the strike, and the note warned that several other labor leaders in Butte were next. Though nobody was ever convicted of his death, there’s evidence to suggest that his murder was carried out by several high ranking members of the Butte Police Department under orders from the Anaconda Copper Company. This murder combined with infighting between various unions caused the strike effort to collapse three months later, though it did lay the groundwork for future strikes and labor actions.

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The headframe of the now-buried Bell Mine.

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Standing under the headframe where the backfilled shaft once was, looking straight up.

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The winch house for the main shaft of the Bell mine.

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The elevator cable still on the spool in the winch house.

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The skyline of Butte from atop the Bell headframe. The Kelley mine headframes are on the left hand side.

The Bell Diamond headframe also overlooks the infamous Berkeley Pit, one of the largest superfund sites in the United States. The Berkeley Pit is the flooded remnant of a massive open pit copper mine that ceased production in 1982. Open pit mines must grow wider as they grow deeper in order to maintain the structural stability of the sidewalls, and as the Berkeley mine dug deeper it began encroaching into nearby neighborhoods and forcing the residents to move out. This earned Butte the moniker of “The City That Ate Itself,” and by the time work was halted at the Berkeley mine it was 1600 feet deep, over a mile wide, and had subsumed three neighborhoods.

The bottom of the Berkeley Pit is the deepest point in all the various mineworks of Butte and thus the final destination for the floodwaters in all the mines. Heavy metals, copper (toxic in high concentrations), arsenic, and acid contamination from almost every single mine in Butte trickles into the Berkeley Pit, rendering it completely incapable of sustaining life aside from a few extremophile species of bacteria. The water is so toxic that it is known to kill entire flocks of migratory birds on contact, with one notable mass death in 2016 killing up to four thousand geese through a combination of acute poisoning and chemically burned internal organs after they landed in the Berkeley Pit.

In 2019 the water level inside the Pit rose within 150 feet of the city’s groundwater reservoir and studies projected that the Berkeley Pit would begin spilling into Butte’s water supply by 2023. A wastewater treatment plant was constructed in 2019 to prevent this from happening, and thus far it has succeeded. Cleanup efforts are ongoing to this day.

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Some mineworks buildings and residential neighborhoods on the shores of the Berkeley Pit.

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A plaque with some history on the Pit.

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The Berkeley Pit, with Butte in the background on the right.
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Re: Montana Misadventures Megathread with Aran

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After a day of poking around the headframes of Butte, I realized that I was vastly underprepared for the kind of expedition exploring the mines under Butte would entail. With over 10,000 miles of interconnected mineworks descending to a depth of up to a mile beneath the surface, the network of tunnels beneath Butte makes other systems such as the Labyrinth (70 miles), the Catacombs of Paris and Odessa, (200 and 1200 miles), and the London Sewer System (86 miles) look tiny by comparison- and that's before factoring in hazards such as flooded passageways, structural instability, bad air, and leftover booby traps from the War of the Copper Kings. Setting foot inside the mines while exploring solo and without serious preparation would be tantamount to suicide.

Lacking the gear, partners, or underground experience to tackle something of this magnitude, I turned my attention back towards northern Montana. Completely disregarding any lessons I might have learned on my last visit to the area three months prior (that DHS encounter), I decided to make a weekend trip out of investigating the ruins of another Cold War radar station near the Canadian border. Surely, this couldn't end poorly.

Well, it didn't end poorly but it wasn't a success either. That radar station was completely derelict, but it was also completely boarded up. It wasn't a complete waste of a trip though- I found three small locations that almost made it worth the gas I burned to get out there. Sometimes that's just how it goes, though.

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Cut Bank Oil and Gas Field

I squinted and stared across the featureless grassland at the oil derricks in the distance. I could have sworn that they were closer when I started. I glanced back over my shoulder at my car- yep, that looks the right distance away for how long I've been walking- and turn back towards the derricks.

I sigh. I guess it really is true that distance can be hard to judge with no frame of reference. Well, I've come this far already. Might as well keep walking.


. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The abandoned portion of an active oilfield stretching nearly 30 miles long by 10 miles wide. The oilfield itself was discovered in 1926 and over the years it has traded hands between a variety of companies, including Texaco, Synergy Offshore LLC, and Phillips 66. This section of the oilfield was derelict and had a variety of structures like the ones below scattered across it. I'm not sure when it became abandoned, if it ever was- there's a possibility that this section was just mothballed instead, or perhaps the wells really did run dry. Either way, instead of one large structure this location consisted of dozens of tiny ones scattered hundreds or thousands of yards apart, all the way past the horizon.

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Glacier Motel

I glanced to the side as I drove through the empty intersection, then did a double take and a quick u-turn. Well, that clearly looked abandoned- the building was half destroyed. I reached for my phone and marked it on my map before continuing on. I was too exhausted to investigate that night, but I'd make a point of checking it out in the morning.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The second of three abandoned spots I found on my Cut Bank expedition, this particular motel was actually the first I discovered. I arrived in Cut Bank well after dark and decided to wait until morning's light to do any exploration. I had resigned myself to sleeping in my car to save some money, and I didn't see any reason to change that plan in the face of a weather forecast predicting temperatures as low as -30 F that night. While I was cruising the streets of Cut Bank looking for a discreet place to park and sleep I stumbled upon this motel, marked it for the morning, and moved on to the parking lot of a big box store.

After a fitful night of sleep in the cold, a failed attempt to explore the derelict Cut Bank Air Force Station, and a few hours poking around the Cut Bank Oil and Gas Field, I decided to check out this motel on my way out of town. The motel consisted of three buildings- two buildings with rooms for guests and a smaller building for the front office. One of the two guest buildings was nearly completely destroyed by a fire in July of 2021, and the other two buildings were both heavily vandalized. Judging by the trash, graffiti messages, and proximity to the High Line trainhopping route, it seems likely that this motel either was or perhaps still is a squat for trainhoppers riding freight from Chicago to Portland.

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Cut Bank Tastee-Freez

Broken glass crunched under my boots as I hopped down from the windowsill. I straightened up and glanced around the small shop, looking for anything that might be worth photographing. I exhaled as nothing really stood out. Window, counter, empty door to the kitchen... just about what I expected, really. Maybe I'd find a rusty deep fryer or something back in the kitchen.

Oh well, it's not like my expectations were particularly high for a small roadside spot like this anyway.


. . . . . . . . .

A small drive in ice cream shop that was likely built sometime in the fifties. Founded in 1950, the Tastee-Freez company rapidly exploded in popularity with just under 1800 locations word wide. Despite seeming like a boon its quick brand growth actually worked against it as the company's reach exceeded its grasp, and Tastee-Freez declared bankruptcy in 1963. As part of the restructurings designed to save the company hundreds of older stores were closed, and it seems likely that this particular ice cream shop shut down during that time period.

In 1986 Tastee-Freez was bought out, and after changing hands a few times ended up becoming less of a fast food chain and more of a brand name supplier for fast food chains owned by its parent company. Of the 1400 locations it used to boast at its peak, only 4 remain. Despite that, Tastee-Freez products can be found in several modern fast food restaurants to this day.

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Substation No. 9

I raised my camera up to my eyes and paused, hearing something in the distance. I listened for a moment and heard it again, the clanking of metal mixed with the hiss of escaping air and a low rumble. It sounded like a train was coming. I took a leisurely step out of sight from the tracks and leaned against the wall to wait.

Sure enough, not thirty seconds later a freight train rounded the bend across the river. The engineer probably wouldn't have noticed me and likely wouldn't have cared even if they did, but better safe than sorry. I waited until the locomotive was past and stepped back in front of the windows, raising my camera back up to my eyes.

The string of freight cars rumbled past across the river. Nothing to worry about.


. . . . . . . . .

In 1909 the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific (CMSP&P, aka Milwaukee Road) Railroad built twenty two electrical substations between Seattle and Harlowton, Montana to electrify several hundred miles of its Pacific Extension that ran between Chicago and Seattle. At that point in history electric locomotives were the industry standard, and these substations were constructed in key locations where the track grade was too steep for the train to climb unassisted.

By 1974 the rail industry had switched from electric to diesel locomotives and substations like this one were rendered obsolete. The Pacific Extension was abandoned in 1980 as a cost saving measure and by 1984 the Milwaukee Road ceased to exist as a rail company, having been bought out by the Canadian Pacific Railroad. Of the original twenty two substations built for the Pacific Extension only seven remain, four in Montana and three in Washington. This particular substation appears to have become a semi-popular party spot for teenagers from Missoula.

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Maudlow

I paused as a strange thud knocked from downstairs. I listened for a moment but didn't hear anything else besides the rustling of curtains in the breeze.

"It's just the wind," I muttered to myself as I shook my head and resumed shooting photos. All that talk about shotgun-wielding farmers had me jumpy, there was nothing to worry abou-

A much louder thud echoed up the stairs, like someone dropping a textbook or tripping on their boots. I froze stared at the staircase. "Oh fuck," I whispered to myself. Glancing quickly around, I realized that I was trapped on the second floor, but the staircase down led outside. I had to try and sneak out so if I were caught, at least it wouldn't be inside a building.

I slowly crept down the stairs, rolling my footsteps to muffle them. As I cautiously peered around the corner at the bottom I looked both ways and stepped out.

"Huh, weird," I thought. There was nobody around. Maybe it WAS just the wind.


(The Youtube video insertion bbcode isn't really working, so here's a link to the video of this moment)

. . . . . . . . .

Exact dates on the founding of Maudlow are hazy, but most sources seem to agree that Maudlow became a town in 1898 when a post office was opened. Built as a station stop on the small Montana Railroad, the company was often nicknamed the "Jawbone Railroad" due to the amount of smooth talking, or "jawboning" in the slang of the time, that the company president had to do to keep it operating amidst constant financial struggles. The town name itself was a portmanteau of the name of the company president's wife, Maud Harlow.

The town itself never grew very large, and primarily served as a community center and link to the outside world for the ranchers and farmers scattered throughout the surrounding area. Traffic slightly picked up after 1908 when the Montana Railroad was bought out by the Milwaukee Road Railroad, and a two story schoolhouse was added to the town a year later. The town stagnated until 1980 when the Milwaukee Road was bought out by Canadian Pacific and the route through Maudlow was abandoned. Without the rail traffic it had depended on for so long, Maudlow fell into ruin as the ranchers looked to other towns for their needs.

These days Maudlow only has a single occupied residence left. Rumor has it that he's rather unfriendly and prone to brandishing his shotgun at trespassers, but that rumor is also unclear as to whether the shotgun-brandishing farmer lives in this ghost town or a different one two counties over. Either way, I decided to steer clear of his house and the train station-turned-garage in his yard. I didn't encounter any problems while I was in Maudlow, but perhaps he just wasn't home.

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The two story schoolhouse, which was the largest and most intact building in the town.

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Second floor of the schoolhouse.

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First floor of the schoolhouse.

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Some children's schoolbooks left behind.

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Another shot inside the schoolhouse.

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One of the few abandoned houses remaining.

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Bedroom of an abandoned house.

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Kitchen of an abandoned house.

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Playground behind the school.

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Schoolhouse and some outbuildings.

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Another abandoned house.

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Some rusted farm equipment with a collapsed barn in the background.

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The schoolhouse alongside the main road.
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Montana Elevator Co

I squeezed through a small gap between the sliding door and the wall and flicked on my flashlight. Quickly shining it around the small room, I glanced upward as the fluttering of pigeon wings reached my ears. The floorboards creaked as I sidestepped some old junk and moved to the center of the room, and sunlight filtered through the wooden slats of the walls to illuminate specks of dust in the air.

I can already tell there won't be much to see but oh well, I thought. Might as well snag a few photos since I'm already here.


. . . . . . . . .

I stumbled across this one by chance while on my way back from Maudlow, and it was the last grain elevator I explored in Montana despite later finding about a dozen scattered around the state. The sheer distance between locations meant that I would routinely spend 6-8 hours on the road in a given day while exploring, so the resource I had in the shortest supply was always daylight. After exploring this one, my patience for cookie-cutter wooden grain elevators filled with nothing but mold and pigeon droppings had thoroughly run out and I didn't even bother to stop for any others I found- it just wasn't worth the daylight that exploring them would burn, not when I had better spots to focus on.

No great history here- just a small grain elevator and the remnants of a log cabin, way off in the middle of nowhere.

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There's something about a sign bragging about "freedom" from behind a barbed wire fence that really sets off my sense of irony.

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Winter's end was rapidly approaching and the receding snow cover meant more opportunities to explore in Montana. But even more importantly, it meant the 2022 Spring Cave Campout in Kansas City. I took a break from the northern Rockies and flew to Kansas City for several days of nonstop exploring and partying, followed by several more days with the Bureau of Exploration in the mountains of Colorado.

That week decided the course for the next two years of my life. My decision to accept a seasonal position in western Colorado that summer as well as my decision to move to Kansas City last month were both directly because of the amazing experiences I had with the Colorado and Kansas City explorers at the Spring Cave Campout. But before I could see those decisions through, I had to fly back to Montana so I could finish up my seasonal work contract, and maybe do a little more exploring along the way.

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Substation No. 2

I slipped under the barbed wire fence and popped back up next to my car with a self-satisfied grin . Easy in, easy out- a perfect exploration. I turned on my camera to check my photos and started flipping through them with a furrowed brow. Huh, that didn't look like the substation. Frowning, I flipped through them faster before I opened the SD card slot and cursed.

Empty. I had forgotten to put the SD card in my camera, again. God damnit. I grabbed the missing SD card from the center console of my car and slid it into my camera before crawling back under the barbed wire. I stood back up, took a deep breath, and walked back towards the substation.

All right, I thought. Let's take this again from the top, and this time actually keep the photos.


. . . . . . . . .

My first season in Montana had come to an end and it was time to head back east to catch up with old friends and family in Wisconsin. However, it was a long road home and I made plenty of detours to take the scenic route through several abandonments along the way. This was the first one I stopped at on my way out of Montana.

Substation No. 2 was built by the Milwaukee Road railroad at the same time as Substation No. 9 for the same purpose. Since the history is identical to the one I wrote for my Substation No. 9 entry earlier in this thread, I won't rehash it here. Unlike Substation No.9, Substation No. 2 is far enough away from any major town or city that taggers haven't bothered to drive that far out, leaving it in much better shape. Substation No. 2 was also known as the Loweth Substation, named for the chief engineer of the Milwaukee Road at the time.

The current landowner is a rancher who likes to scold trespassers in the comment sections of their blogs if he finds them. He's been trying to tear down the building to sell the rubble as scrap brick for decades, but the prohibitive cost of doing so has kept it standing so far. That probably won't change anytime soon, so natural decay will probably demolish it long before the owner gets around to it.

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The engraved brick sign above the front door that read "Substation No. 2". This one was clearly blasted off by gunfire at some point.

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Re: Montana Misadventures Megathread with Aran

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Hell yeah man. I've enjoyed these writeups
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SubLunar wrote: Tue Jul 04, 2023 12:28 pm Hell yeah man. I've enjoyed these writeups
Thanks! There's plenty more where that came from, I've just been too busy to post anything for a while. I'm not done yet haha.

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State Theater

I rested one arm on the bar top and casually leaned forward.

"So I'm curious," I started, "what's the story on that old theater down the street?" The bartender glanced up from the pint glass she was cleaning.

"The one that burned down? I'm afraid I can't help you," she apologized. "I've only been living here for about five years, and it's been like that since before I moved." The only other patron in the otherwise empty bar roused from his drink a few stools down.

"You're asking about the State Theater?" The old barfly asked. He was a grizzled, older man with bleary eyes and a voice like cigarettes. "It burned down over ten years ago. Ain't nothing left inside these days." He turned back to his drink.

"So it's been like that a while," I replied. "I'm interested in the history of places like that, any idea where I could find out more?" But, having said his piece, the old barfly didn't answer. I returned to my own drink as the bar fell back into the midday silence. After a few minutes it became clear that I wasn't going to get any more answers, so I finished my drink and left. Shrugging my coat back on as I stepped out into the cold winter sunlight, I allowed myself a small victorious smile.

It wasn't much but I had a name to work with now. That should be enough to dig up some information.


. . . . . . . . .

This theater originally opened under the name American Theater in 1917, featuring vaudeville acts and silent films. The town of Harlowton was chosen for the construction of this grand and ornate theater because it was a major stop on the Milwaukee Road railroad's Pacific Extension, meaning there would be a steady flow of customers and patrons to support it. In 1930 it screened its first "talkie" movie, a film called Lord Byron of Broadway, and in 1934 the theater's name was changed to State Theater.

The steady decline of the Milwaukee Road in the later half of the 20th century caused the theater to close down at an unknown date and by 1984 it had caught the eye of the Montana State Historic Preservation Office, which wanted to restore it. Before that could happen a fire damaged the theater in 1997. It sat abandoned until restoration efforts resumed in 2011, but they quickly came to a halt in 2012 when another massive fire completely gutted the building. If the cause of either fire was ever determined, it never made it into the historical record.

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Main stage of the theater. It seems likely that this is a remnant of its vaudville days, and the wall built in front of it was probably for a movie screen added at a later date.

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The projector box at the back of the theater, clearly not part of the original architecture.

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The roof of the theater completely collapsed in the 2012 fire. This is all that's left of it.

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The entrance lobby. It looks like someone is either living in it or using it for storage, based on the camper trailer set up inside.

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Exterior view. The theater is the big cream colored shell of a building.

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The charred sign over the theater entrance.
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montana is really just built different. i need to get there.
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Chubz wrote: Fri Jul 14, 2023 1:58 pm montana is really just built different. i need to get there.
It really is. I definitely recommend going in the summer- I only lived there in the winter when the heavy snowfall closes most roads outside of highways and towns for the entire season. An offroad capable vehicle in the summer would have no trouble reaching all the cool places I couldn't make it to though, and I fully intent to return sometime with one to see them.

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Patriot House

I peered closely at the one piece of graffiti in the entire building that wasn't just a scrawled tag. Was that- yes, it really was a painting of the house painted inside the same house. That's something I hadn't seen before. I looked around a bit, but I couldn't find anything else besides the paint job that really caught my eye.

Snapping a few quick shots, I strolled back out the hole where the front door once stood and began walking back to my car. I paused and looked over my shoulder as the dry tallgrass whispered in the wind and a semi truck roared past on the nearby highway. Another gust of wind sent waves through the prairie grass and I turned away. As peaceful as it was, if I wanted to reach Glasgow before sundown I couldn't afford to linger.


. . . . . . . . .

This one was just another small roadside find on my way out of Montana. There isn't any information available about its history, but a few things can be inferred- the thirteen stars likely refers to the original thirteen colonies, the 89 probably refers to the year Montana became a state (1889), and the obvious American flag motif means whoever owned this house was very patriotic- unless the paint job was added after the house was abandoned, though there's really no way to tell for sure.

The single piece of graffiti inside was interesting in a meta kind of way. The paint job and graffiti was really the only thing that made this place unique- otherwise, it's just another shell of a house on the open prairie.

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McCone County Schoolhouse

I flipped through the large book again and checked the table of contents. It was supposed to be the definitive guide on abandoned schoolhouses in Montana, and yet the one schoolhouse I was looking for was notably absent. Given how comprehensive the rest of the book was it seemed odd that the author would miss one, but I supposed it wasn't impossible.

Chewing my lip, I put down the book and turned to my open laptop. I searched my own photos with Google Lens and managed to find a few similar shots from other photographers, but scrolling through them didn't turn up anything I didn't already know. A few quick searches with various keywords didn't shine any more light on the subject either, though I spent a while longer trying. I leaned back in my chair and thought for a moment. The number of sources that even acknowledged the existence of the schoolhouse could be counted on one hand, and all of them were dead ends. This was getting me nowhere.

I sighed and closed my open tabs. Some histories were lost forever if nobody wrote anything down, and it was looking like the story of this schoolhouse was one of them. It was an unfortunate but all too common reality of historical research.

. . . . . . . . .

Yet another small roadside find. Disappointingly, I can't find much of anything about this place in my usual sources. Just about the only information I was able to dig up was some speculation that it was built around the 1920s, but even that is nebulous and vague. I guess the history of this schoolhouse might just be lost to time.

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Here's another standalone writeup I posted to a few different urbex forums about a year ago. Like the other two earlier in this thread, it's written in a different style because I just copied and pasted the original post here as it was written for the sake of congruency.

This would be my last Montana location I explored that year. I spent that summer exploring in Colorado and Utah with the Bureau of Exploration, but those are their own stories for a different thread.

It would be eight months before I returned to Montana.

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Glasgow Air Force Base/ St Marie

Once again I bring you another historical write up from the far reaches of Montana, and like my previous write up this is going to be a long one. From nuclear weapons to sovereign citizens and mock bombing runs to legal battles, the ghost town of St. Marie, formerly Glasgow Air Force Base, has a long and rocky history.

In April of 2022 I found myself on a long drive across the empty prairies of eastern Montana. I was on the way back to Wisconsin after my seasonal job had reached its end, and decided to make a detour to the largest ghost town in the region. The sky was a thick gray overcast and a frigid wind howled for miles across the flatlands with nothing to slow it down. As I pulled off the lonely highway into St. Marie I was greeted by block after block of decaying houses and overgrown streets. I slowly drove around the town and a lone tumbleweed blew across my path. It seemed a little on the nose for a ghost town exploration, but I guess cliches exist for a reason.

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Photo 1: One of the many residential streets in St. Marie lined with abandoned houses. There are roughly one thousand homes in St Marie, but less than a third are currently occupied.

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Photo 2: A tumbleweed looms menacingly in the darkened hallway of an abandoned house.

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Photo 3: The interior of one of the abandoned houses. There was very little graffiti, and most appeared almost as if though they had never been lived in at all.

Forty miles south of the Canadian border sits the crumbling remains of Glasgow Air Force Base, one of America’s many military ruins. Originally named Glasgow Army Air Field, it originated as a training ground for American B-17 bomber crews bound for the European Theater in 1942. The last training squadron departed for England in the fall of 1943 and the base was converted into a POW camp from 1944-1946. Shortly after the end of the war the base was declared surplus and turned over to the War Assets Administration, under which it sat empty for ten years.

In 1955, the US Air Force took over the site and reactivated it two years later as Glasgow Air Force Base. Operating first under the authority of the Air Defense Command, it originally housed fighter and interceptor squadrons to act as a deterrent against Soviet bombers approaching through Canadian airspace. The airbase was transferred to the Strategic Air Command in 1960 and was expanded to house part of America’s nuclear-capable strategic heavy bomber fleet.

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Photo 4: The main lobby of the on-base hospital. The hospital was one of the largest and most interesting abandoned buildings in the town.

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Photo 5: One of the many patient rooms in the hospital wards. Most had between one and four beds.

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Photo 6: One of the several surgical suites in the hospital. Though structurally sound, the hospital has been heavily damaged by mold as this picture shows.

The Great Plains were a popular location for facilities to house nuclear weapons and Glasgow AFB was only one of several military sites in Montana used for that purpose, including the Minuteman missile farms and the SAFEGUARD anti-ICBM program. Military doctrine favored the Great Plains for such bases because they are deeply rural, low population areas. It was hoped that they’d draw fire away from major cities during a nuclear exchange since nuclear weapon sites would be a high priority target to the Soviets.

Major units assigned to Glasgow Air Force Base include the following:
- 476th Fighter Group
- 13th Fighter-Interceptor Squadron
- 4141st Strategic Wing
- 91st Bombardment Wing, 322nd and 326th Squadrons
- 907th Air Refueling Squadron
- 4300th Air Base Squadron

The fighter groups flew F-101 Voodoo fighters, the bombardment squadrons flew B-52 heavy bombers, and the Air Refueling Squadron flew KC-135A air tankers.

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Photo 7: Based on the stirrups attached to this chair it's likely that this room was either the delivery room or gynaecology ward, possibly both.

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Photo 8: Another surgical suite. Based on the small size of the operating table and beds, I suspect this was the pediatric surgical ward.

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Photo 9: Yet another surgical suite, this one in slightly worse shape.

With over 7000 airmen and their families stationed at Glasgow AFB, the airbase became a town in and of itself. Boasting a school, hospital, chapel, post office, library, cinema, and row upon row of modern duplex townhouses, Glasgow AFB was a thriving military town. All those soldiers needed places to spend their pay, and plenty of contractors and businessmen moved to the area to provide just that. Though the exact command assignments and units changed over the following decade, the presence of the 91st Bombardment Wing acted as a stabilizing constant on the airbase and local economy.

This all changed in May of 1968 when the 91st Bombardment Wing was declared not tactically operational and taken off alert status due to the high costs of maintenance. The unit was dissolved and reformed as the 91st Strategic Missile Wing and was subsequently transferred to Minot Air Force Base in North Dakota, where it continues to operate the Minuteman III program to this day. Without its strategic bomber fleet and with March Air Force Base in California able to pick up the slack, there was little reason to keep Glasgow Air Force Base open and the US Air Force deactivated the base three months later.

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Photo 10: A piece of equipment in the radiology department. A patient would lie upon the raised table portion of this machine, which was likely used for chemotherapy or some other form of radiological treatment. Technicians conducted procedures from behind shielded section of the room just out of frame.

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Photo 11: An exterior view of the hospital. Like many buildings on the base it was built wide and low to the ground, possibly to increase its resilience against a nuclear blast wave. Of course, it's also possible that they simply didn't want to deal with the inconvenience of elevators in a hospital if they didn't need to.

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Photo 12: The exterior of the elementary school. Like the hospital, it was built wide and low to the ground, though with far more exterior windows.

The economy of the surrounding area collapsed nearly overnight. Thousands of people moved away from Glasgow in 1968 alone, by 1970 the emigration rate of the nearby town of Glasgow (for which the base was named) had reach 33%, and by 2013 the population had fallen from 7900 to less than 250. The citizens of the surrounding area hadn’t anticipated that the economic boon of the airbase wouldn’t last forever, and they were woefully unprepared when it was suddenly taken away from them.

The US Army briefly attempted to use the shuttered base as a staging ground and supply depot for the SAFEGUARD anti-ICBM complex they were building about 200 miles west, but when the SALT I treaty forced the US to limit itself to only one such complex, construction was halted and the partially built Montana complex was abandoned in favor of the one in North Dakota. In 1971 the Strategic Air Command began using Glasgow AFB as a force dispersal base, where soldiers and equipment from other bases were housed to spread them out and minimize the effects of any one nuclear strike, but the base did not have any actual units of its own stationed there and remained a shell of its former self.

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Photo 13: One of the rooms in the elementary school, possibly a small classroom.

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Photo 14: Like many elementary schools, this one combined the gymnasium, cafeteria, and auditorium into one multipurpose room to save on space.

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Photo 15: A partially collapsed hallway in the elementary school. This building was the most structurally damaged building in town by far.

The base was finally closed for good in 1976, and sometime around 1980 the US Air Force put the base up for sale to private investors. One such buyer was Boeing, which bought the airfield section of the base and renamed it Glasgow Industrial Airport. In 2018 Boeing expanded its holdings to include much of the base itself surrounding the airfield, though it appears little has been done yet with this acquisition. To this day Boeing uses this remote private airport to conduct tests on new aircraft systems including cold weather resistance, noise level, and navigational equipment through one of its subsidiaries, the Montana Aviation Research Company.

Meanwhile, the bargain discount price for the townhouses in the residential section of the base caught the eye of a former US Air Force officer named Pat Kelly in the 1980s. Kelly bought up hundreds of houses with the intention of turning the town into a retirement community for military veterans. A group of veterans moved in, and together they named this fledgling township St. Marie.

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Photo 16: A view of the base chapel, taken from the altar stage. This building was the most pristine and least decayed abandoned building in the entire town.

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Photo 17: A songbook still on the pulpit of the chapel.

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Photo 18: A view of the altar stage taken from the back of the chapel.

Unfortunately, it’s likely that St. Marie was doomed from the start. A town needs more than a few residents- it needs schools, businesses, jobs and entertainment. In short, it needs an economy. Pat Kelly found himself unable to jump start the dead economy of St. Marie, leading to a vicious self perpetuating cycle- the town wouldn’t grow without more people, and more people wouldn’t come unless the town grew. St. Marie quietly limped along in this fashion for a few decades. Property taxes went up and Kelly became delinquent on the back taxes for hundreds of homes, but the county treasurer didn’t even bother to foreclose on them because “nobody wants them.”

That all changed in the fall of 2012, when three strangers came to town. They claimed to be representatives of a company called DTM Enterprises, looking to invest in housing for workers from the nearby Bakken oilfields. Kelly, who had been searching for decades for a way to revitalize the town’s economy, initially welcomed them with open arms- going so far as to host them in a private guest house. He hoped that they’d be the cure for St. Marie’s economic woes, the solution to restore the township to its former glory. He couldn’t have been more wrong.

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Photo 19: Exterior view of the chapel.

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Photo 20: Exterior view of the old post office (left). At some point after the closure of the base the post office moved to a different building nearby, where it remains active to this day.

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Photo 21: Interior of the post office. An old sign in a back corner that reads "North Valley Shop N' Save" indicates it may have been used as a grocery store at one point as well.

Montana law allows for a person or company to purchase tax delinquent properties from the county for the price of just the back taxes, often pulling the rug out from under the previous owner. That is exactly what DTM Enterprises did to Kelly, paying the $187,000 he owed on nearly 400 houses. This purchase was the opening shot in a legal conflict that lasted for years.

As it turns out, DTM Enterprises was a front for the sovereign citizen movement. Sovereign citizens don’t consent to the laws of the United States, and thus believe those laws don’t apply to them. They’re infamous for a wide variety of legal stunts they use in an attempt to make their point, and the FBI has referred to them as “paper terrorists” for their tendency to use frivolous lawsuits and perceived legal loopholes to clog up the court systems and run non-sovereign citizens out of town. Popular sovereign citizen activities include filing lawsuits over drivers licenses, battling the IRS over taxes, attempting to take over entire communities via bogus liens, and occasionally building armed compounds to violently fight the government.

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Photo 22: I'm not entirely sure what this building was, but I suspect it was the local middle school. Like the elementary school and the hospital, much of this building was built wide and low to the ground.

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Photo 23: A hallway in the middle school. St. Marie had no high school and high school aged students likely attended class in the nearby town of Glasgow, roughly 30 miles away.

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Photo 24: The middle school gymnasium.

Two of the leaders of this particular sovereign citizen sect began to escalate their efforts to take over St. Marie. One of them, Terry-Lee Brauner, had been involved in the movement for decades. He’d previously gotten into a protracted legal battle with the IRS over $1 million in unpaid taxes in the 90s, followed by a failed attempt to become a sheriff in Washington State under the Constitutionalist banner in 2010. True to form, it didn’t take long for Terry-Lee to get into legal trouble in St. Marie.

In 2013 he sent a 25 page manifesto to local government officials explaining why he felt he didn’t need a license or insurance to drive, much of it hinging on his self-identification as a “sovereign citizen of the Republic of Montana” as opposed to being a citizen of the “municipal corporate state of MONTANA.” Apparently writing it in all capitalized letters made it a different legal entity, or so he believed. The local sheriff was not convinced, and Terry-Lee spent a brief stint in jail a few weeks later for driving without a license.

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Photo 25: The base had its own cinema to entertain service members and their families with movie showings.

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Photo 26: The back row of seats in the cinema were labeled "Alert Force Only." An alert force in the military is a group of soldiers expected to maintain combat readiness at all times, so positioning them in the back of the cinema allowed them to scramble quickly if needed without getting caught up in the crowd.

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Photo 27: Exterior view of the cinema.

As soon as he was out of jail, the sovereign citizens attempted to declare St. Marie to be a blighted community so that they could use eminent domain to take it over. Given that only the federal government can use eminent domain under Montana law, they failed. Next, they attempted to use the hundreds of houses they owned as proxy votes to stage a hostile takeover of the local property association owners board. That too failed when questions over membership fees, and whether each house got a vote or just each homeowner, were put to rest against their favor.

No stranger to protracted paperwork battles and dubious legal moves, the hostile takeover attempts continued. The sovereign citizens attempted to break away from St. Marie and form their own homeowner’s association, which never got off the ground. Then they filed hundreds of lawsuits against the residents of St. Marie over utilities ownership, which cost each resident no small amount of money in court fees to defend themselves and forced a few to move out as they were unable to pay the legal costs. This was followed by an attempt to rewrite the protective covenants of St. Marie. The battle spread from the courtroom to the local newspaper, where Kelly and Terry-Lee verbally duked it out in fiery opinion pieces as the leaders of their respective factions.

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Photo 28: A sign marks the boundary between the section of town open to the public and the section owned by Boeing.

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Photo 29: Though it's hard to tell, it appears from a distance as though the air traffic control tower and part of the the airport is abandoned. Unfortunately I didn't get the chance to explore this section of St. Marie.

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Photo 30: The old Glasgow Air Force Base barracks, which are part of the section owned by Boeing. I was not willing to risk getting caught trespassing on a military contractor test site, though I won't deny it was tempting.

The prospect of Terry-Lee and his accomplices successfully converting St. Marie into a sovereign citizen enclave did not sit well with the residents. Just few years earlier, a neo-nazi tried to use similar methods to take over the nearby ghost town of Leith, North Dakota so he could convert it into a white supremacist enclave. Even earlier than that, a group of sovereign citizens calling themselves the Montana Freemen made an attempt in 1996 to declare their own independent township that ended in an 81 day armed standoff with the FBI. Terry-Lee had publicly expressed various white supremacist and antisemitic ideas alongside his sovereign citizen doctrine on previous occasions, and these previous conflicts were remembered well by local residents who didn’t like the pattern they saw.

Terry-Lee claimed he had no intention of turning St. Marie into a sovereign citizen enclave, and said he was merely a businessman interested in making money off the oil boom who wasn’t afraid to use underhanded legal methods to do it- despite running local newspaper articles and holding talks preaching sovereign citizen rhetoric and theory. Either way, when the oil boom dried up in 2015 the legal battles over St. Marie ended in a stalemate.

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Photo 31: The interior of the old community center. It was used as a community thrift shop at some point in the last decade or so, but didn't appear to be in use anymore.

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Photo 32: Exterior of the community center (left).

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Photo 33: A sign posted at the entrance to the town welcoming visitors with an abandoned neighborhood in the background. Based of old photos it appears that this sign is relatively new, installed within the last few years.

Though the legal battle for the town’s future had ground to a halt, the courtroom drama continued as both sides were forced to reckon with the cost of their conflict. Terry-Lee was caught in 2017 bypassing water meters to illegally tap water mains without paying utility fees, and he was sentenced to six months in prison for theft- a conviction he fought all the way up to the Montana Supreme Court, which upheld it. Meanwhile, one year later Pat Kelly was found liable for over $12 million in fraud and breached contracts he had accrued from investors while trying to revitalize the economy and fight off the sovereign citizen takeover in court. With both factional leaders unable to continue the fight the future of St. Marie remains uncertain to this day, locked in an uneasy cold war much like the one that led to its founding.

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Map 1: A map I made of the base and town, based off a Google Maps screenshot. Unfortunately I was only able to explore the blue sections, but I hope to return someday to explore the rest.

It was in the fallout of these events that I drove into St. Marie. I spent much of the day exploring the residential sections of the base, but I was turned back from the airfield itself by the signs Boeing posted warning of 24/7 surveillance and prosecution. The fence would have been easy to hop, but I’d already been caught on camera by Homeland Security exploring a derelict radar station turned covert surveillance site three months prior, and I was reluctant to try my luck with a major defense contractor testing site so soon after catching the attention of the DHS once already. I later learned that all I had to do was ask the right person to gain access, but unfortunately I was long gone from St. Marie by the time I discovered that. Still, the ruins I was able to see more than satisfied me. The history of St. Marie is almost as interesting as the ruins of the town and I certainly wouldn’t mind returning one day to explore the airfield itself.

All in all, not a bad way to spend my 24th birthday.

. . . . . . . . .
Sources

SAC Bases: Glasgow Air Force Base
Military History Fandom: Glasgow Air Force Base
Treasure State Lifestyles: Glasgow Air Force Base
Wikipedia: Glasgow Industrial Airport
Spectral Geography: Boeing's Montana Playground
Wikipedia: St Marie, Montana
The Missoulian: Ghosts of Glasgow
Billings Gazette: Anti-Government Group Clashes With Hi-Line Retirement Community
Southern Poverty Law Center: Fear and Loathing In Montana
State v. Terry-Lee
Glasgow Courier: Kelly Found Liable For Fraud
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mindwaave
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Re: Montana Misadventures Megathread with Aran

Post by mindwaave »

Sovereign citizens are hilarious 😆

Lovin' the longform!! See ya this weekend!
Preservation over plunder.
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